The Avid 14×25.4×6 Ceramic Engine Bearing offers the maximum performance and reliability to your racing engine at an unbeatable price. The bearing specs are Abec3, 9 G3 Si3N4 Ceramic Balls, PA66 with 30 Glass Fiber Cage, Deep Groove Offset Races, and Chrome Steel 52100 Rings. It has no seals to allow for proper lubrication from the oil in your fuel. A ceramic engine bearing can allow most RC engines to spin an extra 500 rpm with less drag and the life of the bearing is far greater than a steel bearing. Another benefit to ceramics is the weight difference in the balls allowing for less rotating mass.

If your engine is not listed below, please check with your manufacturer first to see what size you require.

Engines Used In

• O.S.: B21, VZ-B, VZ-B V-Spec, VZ-B V-Spec Speed, & VZ-B V-Spec II WE
• Novarossi: Plus 4 (2008), Plus 21-7T, P5 (Original), 421B, BS-21SB, & C5
• RB: C5/C6, S3, S5, S7, TM928
• Reds: M7T, M7TGT, R5, R5R, R5T, R5TTE
• ProTek: 321B
• Alpha
• Jammin
• Go
• Ninja
• Picco
• Precirotate: D5, PR21B, PR21BS, & PR21C
• Trinity Drake

Tips

• Diagnosing: If you hold the head of the engine with your hand and the rattling sound disappears then you have a worn-out rear bearing. The risks/issues of a bad rear bearing are not holding a tune, crank can get worn, and worst of all the bearing comes apart and eats your piston/sleeve.
• Installation: The best way to install is to use a bearing puller/installer, OFNA makes a very affordable one. If you place the new bearing in the freezer for 15 minutes it will be easier to install.
• Positioning: For proper lubrication, face the open side where you can see the balls to the rear of the motor (not the clutch side).
• Break-In: For the first run of these bearings, Avid suggests that you fatten your motor up on the high-end needle so the ceramic balls will seat instead of skidding them.

• METRIC: 14mm (Inner) x 25.4mm (Outer) x 6mm (Width)
• STANDARD: 0.55118″ (Inner) x 1″ (Outer) x 0.23622″ (Width)